J.W. Anderson is in a zen mood. After streamlining his aesthetic at his men's show in June, he followed suit with his womenswear for SS18. Perhaps the outside world has become so chaotic that even the most bric a brac of designers would feel the need for more simplicity.
In many ways, this show felt the closest in spirit to the work he has been doing at Loewe (where he is also the creative director). As a matter-of-fact, the success he has been enjoying at the Spanish house – both critically and commercially – has probably given Anderson enough confidence to focus on craftsmanship over showmanship.
Sporty silhouettes such as long dropped-waist dresses with boxy sleeves were unconventional yet comfortable-looking. Actually, most of the collection felt extremely wearable, a word very seldom associated with JWA's designs. And – apart from those bandeau tops with strings criss-crossing around the mid-section – most pieces appeared friendly to a woman's body.
Proof that Anderson can manage to harness his off-kilter fantasies we love so much into garments a woman might actually wear in the real world. And, with his exciting new collaboration with Uniqlo launching on Tuesday, mainstream success might be just around the corner for the Irish designer.
Overall, the result was more sophisticated than previous efforts, without losing the uniqueness of his point-of-view. It was most heartwarming to see that Jonathan Anderson doesn't need to throw in everything but the kitchen sink to peek our interest. Serenity agrees with him.
Words by Martin Noives