Francesco Lo Iacono
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK AW23
The Walter Van Beirendonck fashion show is one of the most anticipated moments of Paris Fashion Week Men's, not only for me but for many working in this industry. One of the original Antwerp Six, the Belgian fashion designer has been building on his own vocabulary for years now, daring and experimenting, stepping into new territory each time with an artsy and genuine lens on our contemporary society.
His new collection, dubbed “We need new eyes to see the future”, is an honest reflection of our times as the designer sends on the runway models that feel like aliens or beings that have lost their humanity.
Most of the models were wearing fishnets on their faces, other kinds of face-covering or full masks, protecting themselves from our own reality, shielding from these uncertain times and the anxiety that comes with them.
Even the bodies felt almost inhuman, as many models were wearing garments with inflatable prosthetics that create a unique kind of silhouette.
Despite this, slogans on the garments kept assuring us that "they come in peace" and above all the ultimate message is once again: "No War!", as David Bowie's 'Five Years' was the soundtrack of the second half of the show.
During the show itself, although mesmerized by these powerful and inspirational visuals Walter Van Beirendonck created, I had the chance to sketch two looks of the new collection, a few quick marks that I later reworked once in my studio.