Francesco Lo Iacono
JW ANDERSON AW23
"Looking back is not something I do very often, but occasionally it feels necessary as a way to move forward. The past can be a lens that brings the future into focus."
JW Anderson has permanently moved forward, anticipating trends and pushing fashion totems ahead of time, unconventionally, for Autumn/Winter 2023, founder and creative director Jonathan Anderson felt the need to look back, diving into his own memories and the archives of fifteen years of his own collections.
The result has been presented at the Roundhouse in the British capital during the vibrant days of London Fashion Week, confirming also a series of trends the designer has been exploring with his menswear counterpart, shown last month as part of the official Milan Fashion Week schedule.
JW Anderson goes back to basics once again, without compromising some of its unique silhouettes and gimmicks: after Wellipets, a Tesco dress found its way into the new collection that originates its inspiration from choreographer and artist Michael Clark:
"Sometimes I think all roads lead to Michael Clark – for me at least, but I imagine also for many in this room. Dance, music, art, fashion… when I take stock of my own lodestars, they have all been part of his creative universe. Michael Clark is not only a choreographer of bodies but of British culture at large."
The aforementioned silhouettes and shapes inspired my own work once again, leading to the creation of a new animation featuring some of my personal favourites of the collection.
"At its core, this is a collection about fandom. Fandom is a funny thing: completely personal, frequently irrational, often embarrassing."