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  • Francesco Lo Iacono


Updated: Aug 11, 2021

London's fiercest maximalist Mary Katrantzou didn't disappoint on Day 3 of London Fashion Week. She put together a vibrant collection that took our minds off the gloomy weather and put a big smile on our faces.

Katrantzou, who was at first renowned for her bold prints, has since then broadened her aesthetic to incorporate embellishment and a knack for mix and matching. Assembling fashionable outfits out of contrasting patterns is something the Brits are particularly good at.

Katrantzou might not be British in nationality but she certainly is in terms of fashion. This collection used flower prints, feathers, polka dots, checks, sequins etc. Exuberance is a keyword when it comes to this designer, who has become most adept at walking that fine line between pretty and garish. She is also unafraid to push herself into uncharted territory.

For SS18, she explored a new silhouette with full skirt and puffed up hem. It landed itself well to the more “utilitarian” vibe of the collection. The heavy use of nylon – in bold hues – on a variety of dresses and even the odd raincoat proved that nothing can ever look drab in Katrantzou's world.

It also brought to mind the work of the icon of ugly chic Miuccia Prada (who incidentally pioneered the use of nylon in a luxury context). Similarly, Mary Katrantzou is not one for taking the easy way out. Instead of making run-of-the-mill pretty cocktail dresses, she has chosen to consistently push the envelope. Which is what makes her so exhilarating to watch.

Words by Martin Noives

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